Setting out to see the glacier

I was more tired than I realized, or stayed up too late perhaps, as I sleep a bit longer than planned. Once moving I head down to the ranger station to get trail info and secure a permit, if I'm still interested. I'm talked into a two night plan, as there are two river/stream crossings that can be especially bad late in the day when the snowmelt is at its strongest. That and the hike up Observation mountain on day two does look a bit strenuous.  Aside from the crossings, which turn out not to be too bad there are plenty of smaller crossings. Then, eventually the trail is just slogging though low marshland.

The entire time in encircled in stunning peaks. Occasionally in the muddy sections I see bear prints, and quite a few moose tracks. There's scat of all kinds alongside and on the trail. Then, clear as day, is a grizzly print in the mud. I'm sure of this because of the telltale claw imprints present as well. I mean, I've been in "bear country" this whole time, but only the spectre of grizzly. I've seen countless black bear this trip, granted mainly from the road, but there's just something else the thought of grizzly bears bring. Maybe I watched that movie "The Edge" too many times. There was even a memorial plaque at the start of this trail in honor of a gal killed by a grizz right out here. I'm extra aware of my surroundings on this hike.

The rangers do require a bear proof food container, and offer one if you don't have one. I've got an Ursak, which is basically a Kevlar food bag. The bear cant tear it open, but he sure can trash everything inside trying. That and its security is somewhat dependent on you trying it to something so he doesn't just run off with the safe and try to crack it later. Although it accompanied me on the CDT, it has never been tested. The trail meanders quite a bit, but eventually makes its way to the flat silt deposit of the river that used to flow wide and strong though this valley. It has since tapered to a trickle. Crossing so many streams, along with the marshes, my feet are in and out of the water all day. Because of this I'm in my Chaco sandals. The area is surprisingly dry though, and there is lots if fine dust getting between my Chaco straps and my heels, and its just sandpapering my skin. I don't have much leuko-tape left after giving a large portion of mine to another hiker on the Chilkoot, so I'm unable to adequately buffer and protect my feet. So, walking the river flats, I just go barefoot. Many miles in the silt and sand feel great on my bare feet. I don't think I've ever backpacked barefoot before.

There are stretches where the tenacious mud squishes though my toes and clings to my feet well enough to actually offer some protection on the rocky sections. Iridescent dragonflies buzz by and investigate me. The trail keeps swerving back up the bank and into the trees, but it seems aimless and somewhat hard to follow. Eventually I just decide to stay down in the flats. Slowly I see little lines of footprints every half mile or so where someone else made the same decision to abandon the formal trail and walk the silty riverbed. About 10 miles it, I'm forced into the trees. The flats just run out as the river meets the bank. I decide I'm going to need my shoes for this and make the unflattering decision on how to protect my feet. I pull on my fluffy camp socks and go full grandpa mode in my sandals. Not winning any fashion shows, I'm pleased that I'm no longer rubbing my heels raw. The trail climbs pretty steeply up and over a small mountain to finally descend just a bit to the primitive camping area I was shooting for. Locating a few tent spots, I pick one and pitch old faithful. I need water, and I shouldn't cook close to camp, so I mosey towards the sound of a creek and find a nice little spot to cook as well. Enjoying dinner there, overlooking a large moraine, I consider my options of hanging my food bag. Far enough I wont even know if a bear does't go after it or close enough I might run it off and defend my food? I opt for number two. Its close, but not too close. Laying in my tent I think about how I'd really like to not have to fight a grizzly for my food. 

Observation mountain looks a little daunting from camp. I'm half tempted to leave most of my gear here and make the summit with just food and water. Especially because this will be camp tomorrow too most likely. I've got some time before bed to make my plan.